SWANSEA BAY Restaurant Review August 09

A roar of approval for The Dragon Brasserie

The benchmark attributes of a good restaurant are consistently superior food, unobtrusive yet attentive service, and congenial surroundings. The Dragon Brasserie in the dragon Hotel, Swansea wins on all counts. Every time I have had a meal there in the last few years I have been impressed anew by the sheer excellence of every dish put elegantly before me.
Last week we popped in for lunch -- relieved to find ample free parking (for diners only) in the Dragon’s private car park – to check whether it was as good as I remembered.
At the moment there are several laudable restaurants in Swansea offering TV-chef inspired menus which feature inventive ways of cooking traditional British meat and vegetables. Competent chefs are serving up a range of interesting dishes with a focus on local produce.
One of the starters popularised by cookery programmes is ham hock terrine and I order this where available as a point of comparison with other restaurants. I can categorically assure you that the best I have ever tasted is at the Dragon Brasserie. Head Chef Sam Thomas presents a gourmet version of this rustic dish adding foie gras and chicken to the ham hock for a feast of taste and texture. Follow that!
My main course of lamb chops in reduced balsamic vinegar and red wine sauce was reminiscent of the American super-chef Emeril Lagasse. It was succulent and full of deep flavour, demonstrating that lamb lends itself to complex French cooking techniques more than beef ever will.
Sam Thomas has been creating these and other remarkable dishes for the Dragon Brasserie for the last 4 years and is a credit to the teaching skills of the doyen of celebrity chefs, Anton Mosimann at the Dorchester where Sam spent two years training under the master.
“As a boss, Anton Mosimann is a true gentleman,” says Sam. “He never shouted or swore and as a result we learned to cook with confidence. Above all he taught us how to maintain consistent high quality with every dish we made -- at all times.”
And that, fellow foodies, is the secret ingredient. Not just creating good food but knowing how to deliver superlative quality time after time -- the very attributes for which Michelin stars are awarded.
Now back to earth. A two-course table d’hote lunch at the Dragon Brasserie is offered for £10.The brasserie is open for lunch and dinner and all day for light meals. Booking is not essential but is advisable.